This article is part of a cycling series and a guide to London from FT Globetrotter

For millions around the world, cycling was a silver lining of the pandemic — an excuse to escape the home and take much-needed exercise. I’ve always commuted on two wheels, and when lockdowns forced us to work from home, I began to cycle every morning before long days in front of the computer. Quick rides around my neighbourhood soon became hour-long, early-morning exercise sessions, with a bike upgrade along the way. But as I tried to better my speed and fitness on London’s empty streets, I found myself part of a tiny minority. Mamils — middle-aged men in Lycra — were ubiquitous; middle-aged women in Lycra (Mawils?) were a curiosity.

London has become much more cycling-friendly in the past decade — as other FT writers have attested — and in lockdown it was a dream. There were few vehicles or pedestrians, and the city’s stretches of generally well-maintained roads allowed relatively carefree pedalling.

The UK capital is a great base to push the boundaries of one’s abilities. There are some hills, and it is easy to clock up the kilometres in the urban sprawl on the way to less-crowded routes outside the city. If you don’t like ploughing through the suburbs, trains offer quick access to picturesque country lanes. Unsurprising, then, that in 2020 (the latest period for which statistics are available) rides were up 7 per cent in the centre and 22 per cent in outer London.

Siona Jenkins on her bike by Regent’s Park . . .
Siona Jenkins on her bike by Regent’s Park . . .
 . . . where the Islington Cycling Club also meets
 . . . where the Islington Cycling Club also meets © Lucy Ranson (2)

Gender shouldn’t matter on two wheels. But, it seems, it does. My observation that women are vastly outnumbered by men is borne out by the statistics. Danielle Every, cycling delivery director of British Cycling, the sport’s national governing body, says only 15-20 per cent in the talent pathway of young cyclists are women and girls, “which is too low”. “There is an underrepresentation of women and girls cycling,” she says.

In a British Cycling survey, women said the biggest barriers to getting on a bike include driver behaviour, unsafe cycling infrastructure and a lack of confidence on the roads. This may explain why so many women began pedalling when roads were empty during the UK’s successive lockdowns. British Cycling estimates that the number of women cyclists increased by 1m between April 2019 and March 2020 alone. It remains to be seen whether they will stay on their bikes as traffic returns to pre-pandemic levels.

I have rarely been put off by traffic but, as I’ve gone from commuter to Lycra-clad obsessive, I’ve come across issues that my male cycling friends do not have. When my weekend cycle buddy fell ill, leaving me without a ready-made companion, I realised I felt vulnerable venturing into quiet country lanes on my own, but didn’t know any women who wanted to do long rides at the pace I’d become accustomed to. It felt awkward asking male acquaintances if I could tag along with them and I fretted that I would be a drag on their peloton — and they would be too polite to say so. In the words of one female cyclist I recently met, “There’s always the suspicion that it’s a ‘pity ride’ for them.”

So my solution was to develop urban rides that I could do on my own and expand on, according to time and energy levels, which I’ve shared below. Generally between 25km and 50km, and sticking partly to cycle lanes or quiet routes, these routes could easily be done on a weekend or before work.

The women’s section of the Islington Cycling Club practises group cycling techniques
The women’s section of the Islington Cycling Club practises group cycling techniques
Asked why she enjoys riding in an all-women peloton, one member said: ‘You don’t feel judged’
Asked why she enjoys riding in an all-women peloton, one member said: ‘You don’t feel judged’ © Lucy Ranson (2)

But I was still without a companion for longer rides outside the city, so I looked to join a cycling club. London has an abundance, ranging from the social to the serious, with a growing number actively encouraging women to join. I live north of the Thames and, after a lot of online searching, joined the Islington Cycling Club. Although it has several hundred members it is friendly and inclusive. Group rides start near where I live and there are morning meets in Regent’s Park — already my early-morning cycling circuit. All potential new members do an introductory ride of about 45-55km before signing up, and weekly group rides out of the city are organised informally into four speed bands, allowing all abilities to cycle according to their level.

The club also has a very active women’s section. On Tuesdays at 6.30am, the women gather for a social ride around Regent’s Park. On a sunny September morning I joined them. Divided into two groups of eight, one slightly faster than the other, we chatted as we pedalled, and practised group cycling techniques. The pace was reasonably fast — we averaged around 29km/h — and the mood relaxed. The consensus was that while we all enjoy cycling in mixed groups, it’s something of a relief to occasionally be in a women-only peloton. “You don’t feel judged,” remarked one of my companions.

As we prepared to turn out of the park for a well-earned blast of coffee, a group of (male) cyclists ignored our signals and hurtled towards us at speed, forcing our group to slow down and swerve dangerously back to the side of the road. The women smiled at each wryly. It seemed we were being judged.

Cycling routes

FT Globetrotter has already published some excellent cycle routes both in and around London. Here are three urban rides that mix busy and quiet roads, and are great for solo cyclists.

Regent’s Park (one loop — 4.45km)

‘Nice for a quick morning workout’: Regent’s Park . . . 
‘Nice for a quick morning workout’: Regent’s Park . . .  © Lucy Ranson
 . . . with its surrounding Nash terraces is a popular circuit for London cyclists
 . . . with its surrounding Nash terraces is a popular circuit for London cyclists © Mauritius Images/Alamy

One of London’s eight royal parks, Regent’s Park is 166 hectares of beautiful green space that was once used as a hunting ground by Henry VIII. It is circumambulated by the Outer Circle, 4.45km of well-maintained road overlooked by creamy Nash terraces that is a mecca for urban cyclists. Used by several clubs, it is very busy early in the morning. Distance is infinitely flexible, depending on the number of laps ridden, but from my home in Stoke Newington, a couple of laps comes to about 25km door to door — nice for a quick morning workout.

Globetrotter cycling map starting from Newington Green to Regent’s Park and back

East London loop (45km)

The route crosses the river to skirt past the Thames Barrier
The route crosses the river to skirt past the Thames Barrier © Mauritius Images/Alamy
A cycle path hugging the Thames cuts through Greenwich and Rotherhithe
A cycle path hugging the Thames cuts through Greenwich and Rotherhithe © Paul Quezada-Neiman/Alamy

For a weekend sightseeing ride when I’m not pushing my speed and climbing stats, I head to the Greenway, an approximately 7km-long cycle path shared with pedestrians that cuts through London’s industrial east. While not one for lone cycling after dark, it is an excellent traffic-free ride through a rarely visited part of the capital. At the path’s end, turn south on a reasonably clearly marked route to the Woolwich ferry (or tunnel if the ferry’s not working). Once on the south side of Thames, a cycle path runs alongside the river past the Thames Barrier and the O2 arena through historic Greenwich and Rotherhithe and across the City.

Northern loop (53km)

The route’s hill climbs are rewarded with a ride through Highgate Village . . .
The route’s hill climbs are rewarded with a ride through Highgate Village . . .  © Richard Barnes/Alamy
 . . . and glorious views over London from Hampstead Heath
 . . . and glorious views over London from Hampstead Heath © Sergio Amiti/Getty Images

I’m trying to improve my hill-climbing skills. Swain’s Lane is an infamous incline among London cyclists, but I also like the quieter (and shorter) Dartmouth Park Hill followed by Highgate Hill. The route takes in Highgate Village and skirts the top of Hampstead Heath, with incredible views over the city. The road goes through Hampstead Village and Swiss Cottage, eventually reaching Regent’s Park. To add some length on a weekend morning, I then go through the West End and Hyde Park to join the cycle route on the Embankment, ending up at Putney Bridge before looping back towards home.

Globetrotter cycling map starting from Newington Green and  around the Northern Loop

London cycling clubs

There is a plethora of cycling clubs in the capital offering something for everyone. Below is a small, by no means exhaustive, selection of groups that actively welcome women and/or state they have inclusive policies.

Islington Cycling Club. Large mixed club with an active women’s section

Penge Cycle Club. Inclusive mixed club based in south-east London that welcomes women 

Brixton Cycles Club. Friendly south London club linked to Brixton Cycles, a vibrant community shop

Peckham Cycle Club. Inclusive south London-based club

BellaVelo. A women-only community club in south-west London that caters to all abilities

Camden Liv. North London women-only club supported by the Giant Camden bike store

Maps by Liz Faunce

Do you feel that London is cycle-friendly for women — and how does it compare to other world cities? Share your experiences in the comments

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