Is there life after the Samba?

I own six pairs of Adidas Sambas. I love the gum-soled trainers, which were first designed for a 1950s football game in Germany to endure on the icy pitches – my favourite pair are a rusty red with gold stripes that I found on eBay. Sambas are equally beloved of millennials, zennials and Gen Zs: Katie Holmes, A$AP Rocky and Emma Chamberlain (the YouTube influencer turned business entrepreneur) have all been seen wearing them. In the ’70s, when the “Football Casuals” subculture exploded in the UK, blending sportswear and high-fashion, they were the pride and joy of many Liverpool FC fans. Yet recently their sheer ubiquity has become the subject of more controversy. 

First came their worldwide proliferation, prompting a flurry of “basic” Starter Pack and TikTok memes; one in particular documents the floor of a tube carriage, where pairs of Samba-donned feet appear to have accidentally assembled in a neat, colourful line. “It’s uniform at this point,” the author jibes in the caption, as the camera pans down to reveal her own stripy kicks. But the nail in the coffin came in April when UK prime minister Rishi Sunak debuted his own pair on TV. His appearance prompted a public outcry: “The death knell of a shoe,” remarked footwear historian Elizabeth Semmelhack in The Times.

Throughout, I’ve remained steadfast. I feel defensive of the shoe that has served me so well. Fashion isn’t giving up on the Samba either. Just look at Grace Wales Bonner’s pony-hair or embroidered iterations, Pharrell Williams’ suede-trimmed variety or Japanese brand Alwayth’s recent models, blending corduroy and patent leather, and you’ll see the Samba is an ever-evolving beast. It’s also become “the marker for aspiring blokettes,” says Taro Smith, co-founder of streetwear collective Affxwrks of the popular aesthetic that combines hyper-feminine and masculine styles.

“A brand that not only lasts the test of time but also transcends and finds meaning across generations and class is impressive,” says Fiona Armstrong-Gibbs, co-author of Marketing Fashion Footwear. The Samba releases for 2024 include new drops with Argentine footballer Lionel Messi, skateboarder Kader Sylla, and Kith Classics. “A good product will always survive its saturation,” says London-based brand strategist Juliana Salazar. “I’ve had my pair of Sambas since I was in college. A good shoe is a good shoe is a good shoe.”

Still, some people might be seeking an alternative. Below are some fresh HTSI ideas for those who want the Samba’s energy, without the connotations.

Seven new sneakers to try now

Adidas Top Sala

“Flat-soled, originally purposed for indoor football, great for the dance floor.” Taro Smith, co-founder Affxwrks. £70, adidas.co.uk

Adidas Handball Spezial

“I love Grace Wales Bonner’s take on the Samba, but I’m also a fan of the chunkier-soled Handball Spezial styles, which come in fun candy-coloured shades and could offset a more feminine, floaty dress.” Sara Semic, HTSI’s junior fashion features editor. From £85, adidas.co.uk

Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66

“I bought the silver pair last summer and they’re the only pair I’ve been travelling with. I love the vintage feel and flatness of the sole – it’s the perfect style of sneaker to wear with trousers and pretty much anything else.” Juliana Salazar, creative director and brand strategist. From £100, onitsukatiger.com

Dries Van Noten Nappa Calfskin Sneakers

“I don’t think a luxury brand has designed such a great sneaker since Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent take on the Stan Smith (the SL 08 court classic).” Juliana Salazar. £380, ssense.com

Ecco x Natacha Ramsay-Levi Biom C-Trail W

“What I wear for long days on set and when I really need my footwear to be functional.” Isabelle Kountoure, HTSI style director. £150, ecco.com

On Cloudultra

“Like walking on a cloud; designed for high-performance, they will see you through all terrains and extra-long distances. Zendaya is a fan.” Inès Cross. £90, on.com

Hi Tec Squash Shoes

“Not quite ‘Dad shoe’ but a perfect gateway.” Inès Cross. £35, sportsdirect.com