Pure joy: the best of Brooklyn’s cool natural wine scene

This article is part of a guide to New York from FT Globetrotter

New York City has become a hotbed for natural wine enthusiasts. Originally hailing from France in the late 1970s, the movement that pioneered wines that are farmed organically and made with minimum additives has spread worldwide and taken New York by storm. In the past decade, it has grown so popular that even traditional venues are embracing the trend by adding “orange wines” to the menu in order to please the crowds.

While the Lower East Side has been at the epicentre of New York’s natural wine scene, Brooklyn has also emerged as a prime location for natural wine bars and restaurants. I have spent the past three years scouring the borough’s offerings. Here is a selection of my top picks in four neighbourhoods across Brooklyn.

Williamsburg: The Four Horsemen

295 Grand Street, Brooklyn, NY 11211

Good for: Discovering the next star winemaker
Not so good for: A tight budget
FYI: With only 36 seats, securing a reservation can be challenging
Wines: From $45 to $600
Website; Directions

Justin Chearno, partner and wine director of The Four Horsemen: a bespectacled middle-aged man in jeans, denim shirt and blue cap, sitting on a stool at the bar’s blond-wood counter — Justin Chearno, partner and wine director of The Four Horsemen

An aisle in The Four Horsemen’s blond-wood wine storage room, with shelves of bottles of wine from floor to ceiling — The restaurant stocks 800 labels, with the emphasis on French wines

When I moved from Paris to New York in 2020, I was genuinely worried that I wouldn’t find wine establishments of the same calibre that I had been accustomed to in France. But I had one name on my go-to list: The Four Horsemen. The restaurant has gained recognition overseas for two reasons. First, it pioneered the natural wine scene in Brooklyn. Secondly, it was co-founded in 2015 by James Murphy, the frontman of rock band LCD Soundsystem. If the restaurant initially attracted a crowd of music enthusiasts, it has since established itself as a culinary force in its own right, earning a Michelin star three years ago.

By a surprising coincidence, I found an apartment on the same street as The Four Horsemen. Grand Street in Williamsburg is home to a variety of businesses, from karaoke bars to flower shops and nail salons. Every day, I walk past the restaurant and marvel at the selection of wines displayed in the window, including those by Anne and Jean-François Ganevat, Kenjiro Kagami and Pierre Overnoy.

Seating and the bar in the blond-wood interior of The Four Horsemen, with a slatted room divider and ceiling — The Four Horsemen was co-founded by LCD Soundsystem’s James Murphy

The wine list boasts a selection of hits and rare finds, but it is the dedication to unearthing lesser-known winemakers that sets The Four Horsemen apart. “I am constantly trying to find winemakers who are not famous yet but who are next in line,” says Justin Chearno, partner and wine director. “I like to find winemakers who live next door to the person whose wine we can barely get a lot [of] any more. Somebody they’ve mentored or trained.” Chearno’s latest discovery? Thibaud Capellaro, in the Rhône region.

A plate of Madai in coconut broth at The Four Horsemen — Japanese Madai in coconut milk broth with opal basil and lime at The Four Horsemen

Two stools in front of a wooden shelf on which sit a bottle of red wine and two houseplants, at The Four Horsemen — Lesser-known winemakers are highlighted at The Four Horsemen

With 800 labels and a strong emphasis on French wines, the wine list alone is worth the visit. But the experience doesn’t end here — The Four Horsemen is also a top-notch restaurant. Chef Nick Curtola’s cuisine is outstanding, and no flavours are off-limits. From Spanish mackerel with pickled wakame to Dungeness crab with daikon radish, there’s no shortage of palate-pleasing options. You can trust the knowledgeable staff to help you pick the perfect food and wine pairing, but do yourself a favour and do not leave without a slice of the homemade bread and butter.

On finishing your meal, you can extend the experience in two ways. Either sneak into Nightmoves, the low-key nightclub the four partners opened next door (open Wednesday to Sunday). Or take a stroll down Grand Street and watch the sun set over the Manhattan skyline at Domino Park. Neither option will disappoint. Open daily, 5.30pm–11pm (also 11am–4pm, Fri–Sun).

If you can’t secure a spot, head to . . . Sauced, a natural wine bar in Williamsburg.

Prospect Heights: LaLou

581 Vanderbilt Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11238

Good for: Eating and drinking in the backyard
Not so good for: Drinking cloudy wines
FYI: LaLou hired a new chef this spring
Wines: From $50 to $550
Website; Directions

The first time I went to LaLou was to celebrate my birthday last year. I chose it because it was the perfect combination of the things I love: natural wine on the menu, Scandinavian design inside and outdoor seating in the backyard.

Three wooden shelves filled with wine bottles and glasses at LaLou — LaLou focuses on clean rather than cloudy natural wines

LaLou’s co-owner and wine director, Dave Foss: a bespectacled man wearing brown trousers, a beige cardigan and an orange shirt, sitting on the edge of a round wooden table on which stand four wine bottles — The restaurant’s co-owner and wine director, Dave Foss

Situated in Prospect Heights, the restaurant has a serene and bright interior that feels a world away from bustling Vanderbilt Avenue, with an old beat-up pine floor and a massive concrete bar surrounded by wooden stools. The lighting is made of organically grown mushroom material combined with hemp. The furnishings and the fixtures are minimalistic and evocative of the natural food and wines. The place is not pretentious, yet very smart.

With 50 seats inside and 24 outside, LaLou is perfect for small groups, and the clientele is mostly locals, with a sprinkling of wine industry folk. The restaurant holds the bar for walk-ins, making it accessible for impromptu visits.

LaLou’s wine selection is impressive, with a large bandwidth of labels that fit within the confines of “minimal intervention”. At a time when natural wine bars are blossoming around Brooklyn, offering all sorts of funky natural wines, Lalou takes a step away from the trends. It focuses on clean numbers that are elegant and age-worthy. We drink a beautifully crafted blend of white vines from Austria from winemakers von der Vogelwaide.

A plate of striped bass with asparagus and a pinkish sauce at LaLou’s — Striped bass with asparagus is one of the author’s favourites on LaLou’s menu . . .

Two wooden chairs and a white-topped round wood table, on which sit a plate of food and a glass of white wine, at LaLou’s — . . . which highlights natural flavours that work with natural wines

The food menu at LaLou is equally impressive. The dishes are made with minimal ingredients to bring out their natural flavours. “What we strive to offer is food that highlights the wines we serve,” explains Dave Foss, co-owner and wine director. If you are up for a snack, don’t miss the oyster happy hour, or for a proper meal the striped bass with asparagus is a delight. Food is prepared by executive chef Ian Anderson.

LaLou also has a wine club that delivers a pack of three or six wines to US-based subscribers through its distribution partner, Parcelle. It allows you to experience “a piece of LaLou” in the comfort of your own home. Open Mon–Thurs, 5pm–11pm; Fri–Sun, noon–11pm

If you can’t secure a spot, head to . . . Oxalis, a New American restaurant next to the Brooklyn Botanical Garden

Greenpoint: Nura

46 Norman Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11222

Good for: Inviting out-of-towners
Not so good for: Extended evenings, because of back-to-back bookings
FYI: Outdoor seating is now available (although booking is for indoors only)
Wines: From $65 to $165
Website; Directions

Three members of staff behind the counter in Nura’s open kitchen — ‘My best discovery of the past year’: Nura

Nura is my best discovery of the past year. Whether it is for impressing my parents during their New York visit, catching up with friends over brunch or indulging in a romantic evening, the Greenpoint restaurant has become my go-to spot for any occasion. Every visit offers a unique and memorable experience.

What was once an auto-body shop has a modest exterior, but the grandeur of Nura’s interior takes you by surprise. The open and airy space offers several ambiences in each corner. There is a large central bar where you can strike up a conversation with servers, an open kitchen where chef Jackie Carnesi bustles about, tables in cosy booths for intimate conversations and a lounge area with a vibrant decor and Indian patterns. Even the restrooms are a work of art, with soothing music and wooden design that adds to the overall immersive experience.

Bowls of dips and a bread basket between two glasses of white wine on a tabletop at Nura — The restaurant’s Indian-accented menu reflects co-owner Michelle Lobo-Hawley’s heritage

The menu offers a diversity of flavours but is slightly influenced by co-owner Michelle Lobo-Hawley’s Indian heritage, which adds a subtle accent to some of the dishes. A big hit is the bread basket with three dips and various pieces of bread, including tandoor-baked.

Unlike the other restaurants in this article, Nura’s wine list is intentionally small, with around 20 bottles, and features winemakers from less traditional regions. “I am trying to have a wine programme that finds a balance between being elevated and also accessible,” wine director Mackenzie Gassett. She likes to “highlight indigenous grapes”, such as the Greek Naiads by Papras that we are drinking, which is made with the white grape Badiki. The wine is floral, a little citrusy and has a pleasant acidity. “Greek wines, to me, get to operate outside of the box,” says Gassett, who appreciates the uniqueness of the autochthonous grape varietal.

: a woman wearing a black dress leaning against a wooden counter; in front of her is a small round table on which stand two bottles of wine — Nura’s wine director Mackenzie Gassett maintains a list of about 20 bottles from less traditional regions

The interior of Nura, with a grey marble bar, bronze-coloured wooden chairs and a grey concrete wall — If you can’t get a table at Nura, arrive early for a seat at the bar

While Nura initially set out to be a neighbourhood restaurant, it has quickly become a popular destination for Brooklyn locals and visitors alike. Even with 80 seatings, getting a table at Nura can prove challenging. So here is a tip: arrive at 5.30pm, sit by the bar and soak up the atmosphere as it transforms over the evening. All in all, Nura is a hidden gem that Greenpoint didn’t even know it needed. Open Tues–Fri, 5.30pm–10.30pm; Sat, 11am–3pm and 5.30pm–10.30pm; Sun, 11am–3pm and 5.30pm–9pm

If you can’t secure a spot, head to . . . Otis, a New American restaurant with natural wines in Bushwick, by the same owners.

Fort Greene: Rhodora

197 Adelphi Street, Brooklyn, NY 11205

Good for: A casual night out
Not so good for: Formal business dinners
FYI: Rhodora was previously home to the group’s previous restaurant, Metta. If there’s no pop-up, you can just walk in — no reservations required
Wines: From $64 to $245
Website; Directions

Rhodora’s rustic-chic interior, with wooden chairs and yellow-brown tiling on the walls and around the bar — In the heart of Brooklyn, Rhodora is a community restaurant . . .

Natural wines on two shelves at Rhodora — . . . with a wine list dedicated to ‘low-intervention producers committed to the environmental stewardship of their land’

I discovered Rhodora during the pandemic while biking back home from Fort Greene Park. Nestled in the heart of Brooklyn, it sits in a family-oriented district that radiates a sense of community. With its striking corner location, rustic windows and red-brick walls, it has a timeless appeal that draws in an eclectic crowd of families, friends and neighbours. The outdoor tables, bathed in sunlight, offer the perfect spot for people-watching while sipping a glass of wine.

Inside, the ambience is elegance and simplicity, with plants in the windows and bouquets of dried flowers hanging from the ceiling. The atmosphere is lively yet intimate and feels like a home away from home.

The interior of Rhodora, looking out onto the street — Rhodora is committed to sustainability

But Rhodora is not just about the ambience and community feel. A few times a month, up-and-coming chefs with diverse culinary backgrounds take over the kitchen with pop-ups, such as the duo from Ha’s Đặc Biệt with their Vietnamese cuisine. “It’s a new experience every time,” says Genesis Aponte, Rhodora’s wine buyer.

Rhodora is also committed to sustainability and combating climate change. “We recycle or compost waste. We don’t have any single-use plastics, and we try to minimise waste as much as possible,” says Aponte. This ethos also shines through in the wine list, which features 100 per cent natural wines and low-intervention producers committed to the environmental stewardship of their land. The selection is great and features treasures such as Sans Temps, a wine made with century-old vines from Domaine Matin Calme in Languedoc-Roussillon.

Small plates of cooked meats, cheeses and bread photographed from above, on a table at Rhodora — Several times a month, Rhodora hosts pop-ups by chefs from diverse culinary backgrounds

At Rhodora, you do not need to be a natural wine aficionado — Aponte loves introducing guests to its joys. One of her standout recommendations is wine from Marie and Vincent Tricot, which she describes as having “a perfectly balanced light and juicy flavour with a subtle herbaceous character”.

This place is a true testament to the power of community, hospitality and sustainability. Everyone should have a Rhodora in their neighbourhood. Open Mon–Thurs, 5pm–11pm; Fri, 4pm-11pm; Sat–Sun, 2pm–10.30pm

If you can’t secure a spot, head to . . . June, Rhodora’s sibling restaurant in Cobble Hill.

Share your favourite spots for natural wines in New York in the comments. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter

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